If Monkeys Ran Disneyland

Swayambhunath—or Monkey Temple—is probably one of the most dizzying experiences I have had in Kathmandu. I have been fascinated with Swayambhunath since I saw it—and its monkeys—on a National Geographic special eons ago. Of course, after the show was over I could not tell you the name of the place, or even that it was a Hindu/Buddhist hybrid temple…I just knew it was colorful, exotic…and packed with monkeys.

And I HAD to see it.

My husband makes his living showing others how to avoid disaster. And much like his insistence on getting a rabies vaccine in case of a dog bite, he also made it clear that we were staying clear of the Monkey Temple because of the probability of disaster—a monkey bite. However, after a bit of coaxing, batting of eyelashes and “I am going with or without you,” he caved and agreed to spend the afternoon of his birthday on a visit to this “forbidden” site. (When we had a flat tire on the way there I was hoping it wasn’t a God telling us to “go back.”)

There are two ways to get to the temple (I am going to refrain from using Swayambhunath because, well that is just too many consonants to keep typing correctly): one by car on a long and winding road and one by foot…375 steps up. Now, these steps are old!! Built in the 17th century by King Pratap Malla (I think I have mentioned him earlier) these steps are steep—Sue (if you are reading this), think eight risers in a step class. And, these steps are flanked by monkeys who check out hands for any food for the taking. These guys are crafty and you really do have to watch your step around them. Guess which way we chose? If you guessed the road, well you win a Momo (more on that later).

The temple is really a compound with a large white stupa topped by a gilded spire (and Buddha’s eyes) as the centerpiece. Smaller temples and shrines flank the main square and the area below all the action. As we entered from the car park we were met with smaller temples and stone carving, most lit up with bright paints much like we saw in Kathmandu Durbar Sq. I didn’t notice loads of monkeys straight away but was taken with the peacefulness around me (even though there were hundreds of people swarming around). As we made our way up a short length of stairs, up to the main stupa, there on the other side of the handrail were monkeys (finally) hiding in the shade, casually snacking on trash or some foreign object they picked up in the woods around this area. Docile and seemingly uninterested in me, this was going to be a piece of cake. What is “he” worrying about?

And then we hit the last step…here is where the action starts…and the real monkeys begin.

It was almost funny at first. There were so many people up here in a relatively small space that you had to sort of jump on the ride—think Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride or those vomit-inducing Spinning Teacups. Most people were moving around the stupa in a clockwise direction and turning the large prayer wheels that circle the main stupa. Better watch your hands here folks, because there are monkeys taking up shop on most of these wheels; some of them not paying attention to you, some paying too much attention to you and even more paying too much attention to the other monkeys around them (fights are commonplace). It was wild. We weren’t yet ready to “spin the wheels,” so-to-speak, so we stepped away from the circling throng and stepped into the hundreds of stone carvings that took up most of the foot space on the temple ground. It is like one of the finest sculpture gardens in the world…inhabited by monkeys. Keep your hands in your pockets or your camera close to your face. I swear these monkeys make a good living off pinching and then selling hardware off unsuspecting tourists.

While all this chaos is around you, there are spiritual services going on at the same time. The sounds of horns and bells somehow erase the nonsensical action and draw you to what this place is really about. I stood and watched a service where loyal followers sat, prayed, lit incense and chanted. Soon after this outdoor service finished another one filled the square when hundreds of people exited a temple and chanted as they too circled the main stupa. It is not my religion, but I was moved to bow in reverence to their beliefs and convictions to be peaceful. They don red robes or flowing scarves. They carry orange malas or burning incense. They sound a horn or bang a drum. This is more festival than service but nonetheless religious.

When this service died down, your attention was brought again, well my attention, to the monkeys. This time I noticed, not to my surprise, that the monkeys also share this sacred place with the dogs of Kathmandu. I could not help but laugh watching the monkeys scuffle with some of the dogs as they played king of the hill, kicking one another off some of the larger sculptures.

Every vendor here owns a slingshot and is not afraid to use it! When one monkey gets too close to grabbing something off a sales table, the vendor is poised to hurl something from his rubber shot to halt the thievery. Sometimes monkeys make a clean get away, complete with scarf or hat, and sometimes they get it straight between the eyes. And yes, as I had my trusty video camera out I got just a little too close to two monkeys when a rather loud and scary fight broke out. I scurried off like I was hit with a slingshot! Ok better half, I get it…don’t get too close to the monkeys!

But, my friends, I am really burying the lead here, for the monkeys really aren’t the story here, the story here is Buddha’s eyes. Look up. Swayambhunath Stupa is an impressive whitewashed dome featuring four faces of Buddha. Buddha’s eyes stare out into Kathmandu valley in all directions. Below the eyes is a squiggle-like symbol. Some would think it is a nose, when it in fact the Nepali number “ek” (one), signifying unity. Above the eyes is a “third eye” signifying the insight of the Buddha. The while dome itself represents the earth. And it is all topped off with a golden spire. (And on the day we visited scaffolding obscured it all! Again, I had to laugh.)

You can barely see the sky here for all the prayer flags. Thousands of prayer flags literally ceiling the area above the stupa and the smaller temple area below as well. Prayer flags contain mantras that are said to be carried to heaven by the winds. New brightly colored panels join the weatherworn flags. The old faded flags are never taken down. The mess of old and new is a sight to see.

The world could learn a thing–or-two about how two religious groups can live and worship peacefully together here at Swayambhunath. While Buddha may watch over the place from above, down below, on the temple compound, both Hindu and Buddhists worship, separately but together. It is a very unusual concept for religious sites here, and it is refreshing to witness.

We ended our stay at the stupa when we did a ceremonial circling of the prayer wheels, praying for my father-in-law, who was raised Hindu and I think would get joy out of being remembered in this place of hybrid worship. And if you asked him today, my husband would tell you this was his most memorable, and enjoyable, experience in Kathmandu.

We love you Big Papa.

Namaste